Cercis canadensis 'Forest Pansy'

Cercis canadensis 'Forest Pansy'

Common Names

Redbud 'Forest Pansy', Eastern Redbud

Family

Fabaceae

Description

Hardy shrub often multi-stemmed with deep purple foliage, heart-shaped leaves, pink flowers in spring.

foliage	File:75 C.jpg flowers
File:75 D.jpg bark	File:75 E.jpg fruit	File:75 F.jpg nut

Foliage	deciduous
Group	broadleaf
Toxic Parts?	no
Height	8 - 12m
Crown Diameter	8m
Crown Shape	rounded
Shade Tree?	no
Autumn Colour?	yes
Age	- years
Time to Maturity	45 - 50 years
Flower Colour	pink
Fruit Colour
Bee Friendly?	-

Native Areas

A native of South Eastern Canada and Eastern USA, it is not as free flowering as Cercis siliquastrum but this clone makes up for it by its striking leaf colour .

Preferred growing conditions

Enjoys full sunshine, which will keep the leaf tone vivid.

Soil pH Range	5 - 8 (acidic - slightly acidic - neutral - slightly alkaline )
Soil Types	sand, silt, clay, loam, chalk
Drainage	well drained
Soil Fertility
Sunshine	part sun and full sun
Soil Moisture	normal to moist
Tolerates Exposure	no
Growth Rate	- slow

Hardiness

RHS	USDA	EGF
H	4A	H1

How to plant

Water container-grown and rootballed trees well and allow to drain an hour before planting. While it drains dig out an area for the tree that is about 2 to 3 times the diameter of the container or rootball and the same depth as the container or rootball. If the soil is compacted loosen with a fork (this includes the sides of the hole). But beware of having soil that is too loose on the bottom as this will cause the tree to be lower than desired upon watering.

• If container-grown, put the tree on its side and remove the container. Place in the hole and loosen the roots around the edges without breaking up the root ball too much. Check the depth by place a cane or stick across the diameter - only the root collar should be below and not the main stem.

• If planting a balled and burlapped tree, remove ties or nails from the burlap at the top of the ball and using a knife if necessary, pull the top of the burlap back, so it does not stick out of the hole when the soil is replaced. Synthetic burlap should be completely removed as it will not decompose. Note burlap sticking out of the hole can wick water away from the tree.

• For bareroot trees, feel the moisture of the roots by hand - if dry, dunk them in an bucket of water for 10-15 seconds and replace the packaging (if you are not going to plant at that time). Do not plant too deeply - only plant up to the root collar. i.e. the stem should not be covered in soil. Ensure roots are planted firmly and have good contact with the soil.

Fill in the hole with soil and compost, but do not add less than half of the original soil.

Using the soil, create a water ring around the outer edge of the hole. Not only does this conserve water, but it will also direct moisture to the perimeter roots, encouraging outer growth. Once the tree is established, the water ring may be levelled. Studies show that mulched trees grow faster than those unmulched, so add a 3 inch layer of pinestraw, compost, or pulverized bark over backfilled area.

Only prune lower damaged branches if necessary. Water newly planted trees regularly in their first year. Staking is also important in new trees and in exposed areas - a 1 m stake at 45 degrees crossing the stem at a height of 15 cm can provide good support. Be careful of the binding of the stake to ensure the tree is not strangled. Binding should be checked in the second year, as the stem will thicken.

When to plant

Early to mid-Autumn, for cold, wet sites wait until early to mid-Spring. Container-grown trees can generally be planted all year round except when it is very hot and dry or the ground is frozen.

Tree care

Hedging Potential	no
Balcony/Roof Terrace	yes
Indoors	no

Potential Pests and Diseases

Pests
Diseases	verticillium wilt, coral spot

History and Human Connection

Uses

• As an ornamental tree providing rich purple foliage

References

• List of Trees